RV Fridge Problems We Fix
- Not cooling on electric but fine on gas (or vice versa) — failed heating elements, gas valves, igniters, or control boards
- Not cooling on anything — thermistor faults, airflow problems in the vent stack, or a failing cooling unit
- Check light / error codes — Norcold and Dometic diagnostic codes traced to the actual component, not guessed at
- Freezer works, fridge warm — diffuser and airflow issues, door seals, thermistor placement
- 12V compressor fridge dead — supply voltage drops, blown fuses, failed compressor control modules
Absorption Fridges Are Altitude-Sensitive
Propane absorption refrigerators are picky about level ground and burn differently at Denver's altitude. A unit that limped along at sea level often gives up here: weak flames foul the burner, and off-level parking overheats the cooling unit. We clean and tune the burner assembly, verify the flue, and check for the yellow ammonia residue that signals a cooling-unit leak — so you know whether the fridge needs a $50 part or a replacement.
Safety note: a strong ammonia smell inside the fridge means the cooling unit has ruptured. Shut the fridge off and air out the rig — then call. Recalled Norcold and Dometic models also deserve a check we can do during any visit.
Repair vs. Replace — an Honest Call
Cooling-unit replacements on older absorption fridges sometimes cost more than switching to a modern 12V compressor refrigerator, which cools faster, doesn't care about level, and sips from your battery bank. We'll price both paths and install either — at your campsite or storage lot anywhere from Parker to Westminster.
Related Services
Fridge tripping breakers or browning out? The real problem may be power — ask about RV electrical repair during your call.