RV Water Heater Problems We Fix
- No hot water on propane — failed igniters and electrodes, thermocouples, gas valves, or control boards
- No hot water on electric — burned-out heating elements, tripped ECO/thermostat resets, failed switches
- Water not hot enough or runs out fast — sediment buildup, failed thermostats, a bypass valve left half open after winterization
- Leaks from the tank or fittings — pressure-temperature relief valves, cracked drain plugs, freeze-damaged tanks
- Rotten-egg smell in the hot water — a consumed anode rod reacting with the tank; we flush the tank and replace the anode
The Denver Freeze Factor
The single most expensive water heater failure we see on the Front Range is a tank cracked by a hard freeze in an RV that wasn't winterized. A sudden October cold snap can split a $400 tank overnight. If your heater made it through winter, we'll check it during any service call; if you're storing the rig, book mobile winterization before the first freeze — it costs a fraction of one tank.
Quick check before you call: confirm the winterization bypass valves behind the water heater are fully in the "normal" position. A surprising number of "broken heater" calls in May are a bypass still set from October. We'll walk you through it on the phone for free.
Repair, Replace, or Go Tankless
Suburban and Atwood parts are readily available and most repairs are same-visit. When a tank is beyond saving, we can install a like-for-like replacement or upgrade you to an on-demand tankless unit for endless hot water — installed at your site, gas and electrical connections included.
Related Services
Water heater fine but the pump or lines leaking? We handle RV plumbing repairs too. Heating problems in the cabin as well? See RV furnace repair.